27th Aug
Left home at 5:30 pm yesterday to catch the 2am ferry at Dover. Left early as we were concerned about holiday traffic delays plus the road works that showed up on the AA web site. In the event we had a clear run down and even after a few stops arrived just after midnight.
We were put on an earlier ferry and arrived in France at about 4am. After an hour we stopped at an Aire for a few hours sleep than continued on through Belgium to arrive at our campsite at 9am. They were a bit surprised to see us, not only because it was early but also because Helen had inadvertently made the booking for September! The elderly couple who run the site were very accommodating about it all. This is our third visit here at Oliepot so it feels like home from home. Only one other van in the main field and four in all. In peak summer it takes 40 units.
After a coffee and a sandwich we headed out on bikes for a short run through Oostburg, Sluis and Aardenburg.
This turned out be an exhausting trip as the sun was very strong and the temperature was over 30 degrees. Sluis was the turning point for me, I just suddenly had had enough. But prior to that it was all extremely enjoyable and I was delighted to be back in Holland, simply riding through Dutch countryside and taking in the small town architecture is simply wonderful.
Arrived back after our 'short run' at 4pm somewhat dehydrated (never seem to drink enough) and with sun blisters - in spite of having applied sun cream. And the caravan was like a sauna. A cold shower worked wonders and sat outside under a tree waiting for the sun intensity to drop. Site owner came around to give us a present of some locally produced biscuits, in celebration of their 25 year site anniversary.
Had a late eveng meal of spinach cheese cake with a generous salad. Then plums that we bought while out earlier. In bed by 9pm feeling totally exhausted (not surprising after two nights with little sleep and a very hot bike ride) but it took several hours to get off in view of very itchy sun blisters plus insect bites - still not sure where they came from. Helen has the same.
Wed 28th Aug
Out by 10:30am in cooler weather for a trip to the south and east. A very pleasant route through the Belgium/Dutch countryside dotted with impeccable farm houses. Farming seems to pay well here.
The planned lunch at Sint Laureins never happened however as the whole of the mainstreet was being dug up by big JCB type equipment for what looked like a new drainage system. The town had effectively been closed down. Pity - it looked like a nice place when not being dug up. We subsequently found a few cafes on our bike route but they were all closed - can't fathom why.
Eventually arrived back to have lunch at the caravan at 3:30pm. Probably better than we would have had anyway! Temperatures around 27 degrees so a more tolerable day weather-wise. There is a small amount of rain due early evening - it will be very welcome if it materialises. Passed a pear and apple farm and bought a litre of pear juice for all of 1e20.
Spag-Bol for evening meal with Quorn mince sauce that we have brought with us. Very useful having a fridge that runs while we are towing the van.
Thurs 29th Aug
A leisurely departure at 11am. Site owners came out for a chat and to say goodbye and hope we'd return. We probably will. A 70mile drive up to Zieriksee that involved crossing two inland waters, under and over - a long tunnel from Terneuzen and an impressive 8km bridge over to Zieriksee. Arrive just 5 minutes before the 1pm arrival time but not an issue as the site is almost empty - very end of season. We booked in at the adjoining sales outlet for all sorts of herbal potions, run by two girls who looked like glowing recommendations for the products. Settling in took the usual half hour then a late lunch and off on the bikes to visit Ouwerkerk just 2km away on the coast.
It is famous for having endured two terrible floods, one caused when the Germans broke the dykes as they retreated in 1943 and the second in 1953 when a freak combination of winds and a spring tide caused the dykes to burst - with a loss of 150 lives. The dyke was restored with four massive concrete structures intended for use in the D-day landings but never used. They were transported from England in 1953 to be used in the dyke recovery operation. They are still here in all their concrete glory and now house four museums, dedicated to the amazing things the Dutch have achieved with land reclamation and dykes.
The weather has cooled thankfully but we are still suffering from our combination of sun blisters and bites. Bean wraps out of our freezer for evening meal plus more local plums.
Fri 30th Aug
A short ride to Zieriksee, last here four years ago and soon remembered it as we cycled in. A very impressive city gate sitting on the round city canal. A buzzing place with internal water and impressive church.
Spent an hour pottering around the interesting back streets then a lunch at Earth cafe in the centre.
Opposite us was an interesting mural, offering a good opportunity for some trick photography.
Then cycled up the coast on the ridge of the dyke for about 5 miles before cutting inland to return via Zieriksee. Followed the town's outer canal system, a very attractive narrow park with interesting duck houses. One had an uninvited guest in the form of a heron.
Returned to the camp site through endless onion fields, recently cropped with lines of drying onions.
Another sunny day and sensible temperatures. Only 24 miles but with strong winds it was quite tiring - even on electric bikes! Evening meal of chick pea, sardines, pasta, onion, capers, tomatoes - a staple dish.
Sat 31st Aug
A hot day forecast so out a bit earlier, as well as being fresher, the light is so much better early on. The country side looks amazing.
One of the endearing things about Holland is that each small town has a mini-zoo - just a fenced off area with free roaming animals. Nothing exotic, usually a mix of chickens, sheep, goat, ducks, deer.
Did a loop to the east through Sirjansland then cycling along the top of a sea dyke to Bruinisse where we bought cheese, bread and an egg mayonnaise for lunch - perched on top of a dyke overlooking loads of sailboats heading out to one of the large inland seas.
Then back westward along more sea dykes to Ouwerkerke where Helen had coffee and apple tart and I had a beer. Arrived back to a steaming hot caravan - in spite of all the windows being left open - a really hot day. The caravan shower is proving invaluable for cooling us down. At about 6pm headed into Niewerkerk to a Jumbo supermarket that we'd spotted earlier to buy some salad things for an evening meal. Weather seems to be changing, a lot of wind and cloud coming over.
Sun 1st Sept
An early start to travel all of 10 miles to our next site, a naturist site near Zerooskerke. We arrived at 10am to be greeted by Wilelm, a somewhat dishevelled sixty something. Seems we're the only ones here, the dilapidated state of the site may be a factor. Certainly not the pristine Dutch standard we've found in most places. But at least it's quiet! Weather not ideal for a naturist experience really as it's turned a bit chilly after all the hot weather.
Plenty of sun though, so off on our bikes again after lunch to Scharendijke and Brouwershaven on the north coast.
Good views over the inland sea - plenty of sailing boats as usual and several vast sailboat harbour complexes with hundreds of boats waiting to be taken out for a spin. Today's brisk and cold wind would make for good sailing. I must say I felt a bit nostalgic watching all the sailboats. The electric bikes were invaluable in today's winds, we can travel a lot faster and a lot further, and not feel worn out afterwards. Passed several windmills so lots of photo-opportunites.
The sky was full of broken cumulus today which emphasised the fact that most of what you see when up on the dykes is sky - a major draw that Holland has.
Back to the camp site via an extensive nature reserve - a large lagoon that they decided not to recover after the 1953 floods. Birds are well looked after here, humans are not allowed in the nature reserves so nature is left in peace.
Evening meal of omelette using some of Wilelm's free potatoes plus chopped onion and pepper. Followed by pears bought at one of the many roadside stalls.
Our sun blisters, if that's what they are, are still giving trouble, after almost a week. They are very itchy and we have to wear long-sleeved clothing all the time to avoid making things worse. Exactly the same happened here, but far worse, two years ago. Zeeland is extensively and intensively farmed and we have a suspicion that there are agricultural chemicals about that we are sensitive to.
Mon 2nd Sept
A fine day again, so out on bikes to do a loop west through the holiday town of Renesse and then Burgh-Haamstede. As we set out I caught the smell of an insecticide I used to use for mealy bugs in my cactus growing days. A strong systemic that had lots of warnings on the bottle. And sure enough there was a tractor with a massive spraying attachment. The odd thing was that there were no crops, just newly ploughed soil. Anyway, my theory about agricultural chemicals has just taken on a bit more credibility.
Had a really nice ice cream at Renesse, the weather has cooled but it's still warm enough for ice cream! Then on west around the coast which has mile after mile of sand dunes and wood - very attractive indeed.
Burgh-Haamstede only had a Spar so reluctantly did a small shop there. And another ice cream. Then headed out to the adjoining Burgh where we encountered a large DN supermarket - annoying, Spar here is like at home, high prices and I always get the feeling that people only shop there when there's nowhere else. From Burgh we cycled on through an amazing area of woodland and dunes. Then out onto a high coastal path and back to the camp site for a shower and a sit in the sun. We are still the only ones here and owner Wilhem is never around. So I can play my concertina as loud as I wish without fear of annoying anyone. Apart from Helen of course!
Another salad meal followed by more pears.
Tues 3rd Sept
Moving on day. On the road by 10:30 for a short hop down to the middle 'finger', Walcheren. The drive over the Delta Project roadway was impressive as always, then another shorter bridge and we were almost there. A 40 minute trip in all. Camp site Veldlust is just north of Serooskerke, yet another Serooskerke. Lots of static caravans here, no doubt occupied in peak season but mainly empty now. At e20 a night it's the cheapest so far and the facilities are excellent. And of course free WiFi as always. Cycled up the coast to Veere, our 4th visit apparently.
An attractive, busy, touristy town with a large craft market. Good ice cream! Then a ride back through Serooskerke and the inner parts of Oostkapell. This is a very nice area with distinctive architecture and an affluent feel to it all.
A three course meal - salad/spaghetti lentils and stewed dried fruit with skyr, a thickish yoghurt.
Wed 4th Sept
Rain was forecast today so I had a load of activities lined up: Transition September newsletter, U3A Science newsletter, catching up with various glass links and Facebook sites, and then watercolour painting activities. The latter is something I'm trying to get into but not sure I'm up to it. We can but try. Helen elected to risk it and go out on the bike. She got wet but enjoyed her trip out while I was in the van with the central heating on. I've been looking forward to a rainy day! Late afternoon the skies cleared so we went on a short ride to Serooskerke in the brilliant sunshine.
But only after Helen's heart rate came down from the 150 rate showing on her Fitbit. High for an hour so started to look up nearest A&E equivelant. Not so straightforward. Anyway it came down so out we went. Arguably we should be safely at home. But we are here now.
Evening meal of pasta in tomato sauce with tuna followed by stewed apple and yoghurt and Blakedown blackberry syrup. And of course a beer!
Thurs 5th Sept
A very windy night and a windy day ahead so decided to play safe and cycle into Middelburg, about 6 km south. Zeeland's largest city has lots for an interesting day out. A large market, interesting church, attractive side streets, a canal system and loads of shops - not an empty shop in sight.
Lunch was at city centre sandwich bars - a Kippie for me (chicken baguette) and cheese and mustard for Helen. Plus marzipan/ginger cake. A busy town going about its business and not at all touristy. Came back via the west coast holiday town of Zoutelande which I was pleased not to linger in. Then back to base via Grijpskerke.
Passed loads of impressive wildflower verges, they seem to have disappeared in England. No rain today but a bit cold and quite windy. A spaghetti/anchovy meal with fruit salad and skyr. Sat/Sun looking a bit wet so we have decided to stay an extra night here, have a long bike ride tomorrow, and get the ferry back on Saturday night. Feels like time to go home.
Fri 5th Sept
A less windy day so off to do a coastal route, via Grijpskerke to Zouteland then north up the coast to Westkapelle. There's a WWII tank there to commemorate the liberation of Zeeland in 1944. To get the Germans out the allies bombed the dyke here and flooded the villages and land, killing many inhabitants. What a decision to have to make.
By the mid fifties the town was rebuilt, much as it is today. We had our pre-prepared sandwiches just outside town by a lake then had chips and mayo at a seaside chippy. Very Dutch. Then cycled along the top of the sea dyke to Domburg, a spectacular run. North of Domburg we passed through an extensive woodland and spotted some deer with a newly born on spring loaded legs. Very extensive dune walks (bikes not allowed) that would be good to do sometime.
At this point I felt I'd had enough and returned to the caravan, buying bread at Serooskerke en route. Had a hot shower, shave and beard trim in the excellent facilities here. Helen meanwhile was determined to get more miles in and carried on over the Veerse Meer bridge to do more coast on the next island up. Managed to do 50 miles in all, pretty good given the wind today. The electric bikes are pretty well essential when there's any sort of wind here. Which seems to be most of the time.
Sat 7th Sept
Left home at 5:30 pm yesterday to catch the 2am ferry at Dover. Left early as we were concerned about holiday traffic delays plus the road works that showed up on the AA web site. In the event we had a clear run down and even after a few stops arrived just after midnight.
We were put on an earlier ferry and arrived in France at about 4am. After an hour we stopped at an Aire for a few hours sleep than continued on through Belgium to arrive at our campsite at 9am. They were a bit surprised to see us, not only because it was early but also because Helen had inadvertently made the booking for September! The elderly couple who run the site were very accommodating about it all. This is our third visit here at Oliepot so it feels like home from home. Only one other van in the main field and four in all. In peak summer it takes 40 units.
After a coffee and a sandwich we headed out on bikes for a short run through Oostburg, Sluis and Aardenburg.
This turned out be an exhausting trip as the sun was very strong and the temperature was over 30 degrees. Sluis was the turning point for me, I just suddenly had had enough. But prior to that it was all extremely enjoyable and I was delighted to be back in Holland, simply riding through Dutch countryside and taking in the small town architecture is simply wonderful.
Arrived back after our 'short run' at 4pm somewhat dehydrated (never seem to drink enough) and with sun blisters - in spite of having applied sun cream. And the caravan was like a sauna. A cold shower worked wonders and sat outside under a tree waiting for the sun intensity to drop. Site owner came around to give us a present of some locally produced biscuits, in celebration of their 25 year site anniversary.
Had a late eveng meal of spinach cheese cake with a generous salad. Then plums that we bought while out earlier. In bed by 9pm feeling totally exhausted (not surprising after two nights with little sleep and a very hot bike ride) but it took several hours to get off in view of very itchy sun blisters plus insect bites - still not sure where they came from. Helen has the same.
Wed 28th Aug
Out by 10:30am in cooler weather for a trip to the south and east. A very pleasant route through the Belgium/Dutch countryside dotted with impeccable farm houses. Farming seems to pay well here.
The planned lunch at Sint Laureins never happened however as the whole of the mainstreet was being dug up by big JCB type equipment for what looked like a new drainage system. The town had effectively been closed down. Pity - it looked like a nice place when not being dug up. We subsequently found a few cafes on our bike route but they were all closed - can't fathom why.
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| in someone's garden - a pet vulture! |
Eventually arrived back to have lunch at the caravan at 3:30pm. Probably better than we would have had anyway! Temperatures around 27 degrees so a more tolerable day weather-wise. There is a small amount of rain due early evening - it will be very welcome if it materialises. Passed a pear and apple farm and bought a litre of pear juice for all of 1e20.
Spag-Bol for evening meal with Quorn mince sauce that we have brought with us. Very useful having a fridge that runs while we are towing the van.
Thurs 29th Aug
A leisurely departure at 11am. Site owners came out for a chat and to say goodbye and hope we'd return. We probably will. A 70mile drive up to Zieriksee that involved crossing two inland waters, under and over - a long tunnel from Terneuzen and an impressive 8km bridge over to Zieriksee. Arrive just 5 minutes before the 1pm arrival time but not an issue as the site is almost empty - very end of season. We booked in at the adjoining sales outlet for all sorts of herbal potions, run by two girls who looked like glowing recommendations for the products. Settling in took the usual half hour then a late lunch and off on the bikes to visit Ouwerkerk just 2km away on the coast.
It is famous for having endured two terrible floods, one caused when the Germans broke the dykes as they retreated in 1943 and the second in 1953 when a freak combination of winds and a spring tide caused the dykes to burst - with a loss of 150 lives. The dyke was restored with four massive concrete structures intended for use in the D-day landings but never used. They were transported from England in 1953 to be used in the dyke recovery operation. They are still here in all their concrete glory and now house four museums, dedicated to the amazing things the Dutch have achieved with land reclamation and dykes.
The weather has cooled thankfully but we are still suffering from our combination of sun blisters and bites. Bean wraps out of our freezer for evening meal plus more local plums.
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| The Onion Harvest |
Fri 30th Aug
A short ride to Zieriksee, last here four years ago and soon remembered it as we cycled in. A very impressive city gate sitting on the round city canal. A buzzing place with internal water and impressive church.
Spent an hour pottering around the interesting back streets then a lunch at Earth cafe in the centre.
Opposite us was an interesting mural, offering a good opportunity for some trick photography.
Another sunny day and sensible temperatures. Only 24 miles but with strong winds it was quite tiring - even on electric bikes! Evening meal of chick pea, sardines, pasta, onion, capers, tomatoes - a staple dish.
Sat 31st Aug
A hot day forecast so out a bit earlier, as well as being fresher, the light is so much better early on. The country side looks amazing.
Did a loop to the east through Sirjansland then cycling along the top of a sea dyke to Bruinisse where we bought cheese, bread and an egg mayonnaise for lunch - perched on top of a dyke overlooking loads of sailboats heading out to one of the large inland seas.
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| Oyster Girl |
Sun 1st Sept
An early start to travel all of 10 miles to our next site, a naturist site near Zerooskerke. We arrived at 10am to be greeted by Wilelm, a somewhat dishevelled sixty something. Seems we're the only ones here, the dilapidated state of the site may be a factor. Certainly not the pristine Dutch standard we've found in most places. But at least it's quiet! Weather not ideal for a naturist experience really as it's turned a bit chilly after all the hot weather.
Good views over the inland sea - plenty of sailing boats as usual and several vast sailboat harbour complexes with hundreds of boats waiting to be taken out for a spin. Today's brisk and cold wind would make for good sailing. I must say I felt a bit nostalgic watching all the sailboats. The electric bikes were invaluable in today's winds, we can travel a lot faster and a lot further, and not feel worn out afterwards. Passed several windmills so lots of photo-opportunites.
The sky was full of broken cumulus today which emphasised the fact that most of what you see when up on the dykes is sky - a major draw that Holland has.
Back to the camp site via an extensive nature reserve - a large lagoon that they decided not to recover after the 1953 floods. Birds are well looked after here, humans are not allowed in the nature reserves so nature is left in peace.
Evening meal of omelette using some of Wilelm's free potatoes plus chopped onion and pepper. Followed by pears bought at one of the many roadside stalls.
Our sun blisters, if that's what they are, are still giving trouble, after almost a week. They are very itchy and we have to wear long-sleeved clothing all the time to avoid making things worse. Exactly the same happened here, but far worse, two years ago. Zeeland is extensively and intensively farmed and we have a suspicion that there are agricultural chemicals about that we are sensitive to.
Mon 2nd Sept
A fine day again, so out on bikes to do a loop west through the holiday town of Renesse and then Burgh-Haamstede. As we set out I caught the smell of an insecticide I used to use for mealy bugs in my cactus growing days. A strong systemic that had lots of warnings on the bottle. And sure enough there was a tractor with a massive spraying attachment. The odd thing was that there were no crops, just newly ploughed soil. Anyway, my theory about agricultural chemicals has just taken on a bit more credibility.
Had a really nice ice cream at Renesse, the weather has cooled but it's still warm enough for ice cream! Then on west around the coast which has mile after mile of sand dunes and wood - very attractive indeed.
Burgh-Haamstede only had a Spar so reluctantly did a small shop there. And another ice cream. Then headed out to the adjoining Burgh where we encountered a large DN supermarket - annoying, Spar here is like at home, high prices and I always get the feeling that people only shop there when there's nowhere else. From Burgh we cycled on through an amazing area of woodland and dunes. Then out onto a high coastal path and back to the camp site for a shower and a sit in the sun. We are still the only ones here and owner Wilhem is never around. So I can play my concertina as loud as I wish without fear of annoying anyone. Apart from Helen of course!
Another salad meal followed by more pears.
Tues 3rd Sept
Moving on day. On the road by 10:30 for a short hop down to the middle 'finger', Walcheren. The drive over the Delta Project roadway was impressive as always, then another shorter bridge and we were almost there. A 40 minute trip in all. Camp site Veldlust is just north of Serooskerke, yet another Serooskerke. Lots of static caravans here, no doubt occupied in peak season but mainly empty now. At e20 a night it's the cheapest so far and the facilities are excellent. And of course free WiFi as always. Cycled up the coast to Veere, our 4th visit apparently.
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| Spot Helen! |
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| The Garlic Lady |
An attractive, busy, touristy town with a large craft market. Good ice cream! Then a ride back through Serooskerke and the inner parts of Oostkapell. This is a very nice area with distinctive architecture and an affluent feel to it all.
A three course meal - salad/spaghetti lentils and stewed dried fruit with skyr, a thickish yoghurt.
Wed 4th Sept
Rain was forecast today so I had a load of activities lined up: Transition September newsletter, U3A Science newsletter, catching up with various glass links and Facebook sites, and then watercolour painting activities. The latter is something I'm trying to get into but not sure I'm up to it. We can but try. Helen elected to risk it and go out on the bike. She got wet but enjoyed her trip out while I was in the van with the central heating on. I've been looking forward to a rainy day! Late afternoon the skies cleared so we went on a short ride to Serooskerke in the brilliant sunshine.
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| Our local town, Serooskereke |
But only after Helen's heart rate came down from the 150 rate showing on her Fitbit. High for an hour so started to look up nearest A&E equivelant. Not so straightforward. Anyway it came down so out we went. Arguably we should be safely at home. But we are here now.
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| And lest we forget why the EU was brought into being. |
Thurs 5th Sept
A very windy night and a windy day ahead so decided to play safe and cycle into Middelburg, about 6 km south. Zeeland's largest city has lots for an interesting day out. A large market, interesting church, attractive side streets, a canal system and loads of shops - not an empty shop in sight.
Lunch was at city centre sandwich bars - a Kippie for me (chicken baguette) and cheese and mustard for Helen. Plus marzipan/ginger cake. A busy town going about its business and not at all touristy. Came back via the west coast holiday town of Zoutelande which I was pleased not to linger in. Then back to base via Grijpskerke.
Passed loads of impressive wildflower verges, they seem to have disappeared in England. No rain today but a bit cold and quite windy. A spaghetti/anchovy meal with fruit salad and skyr. Sat/Sun looking a bit wet so we have decided to stay an extra night here, have a long bike ride tomorrow, and get the ferry back on Saturday night. Feels like time to go home.
Fri 5th Sept
A less windy day so off to do a coastal route, via Grijpskerke to Zouteland then north up the coast to Westkapelle. There's a WWII tank there to commemorate the liberation of Zeeland in 1944. To get the Germans out the allies bombed the dyke here and flooded the villages and land, killing many inhabitants. What a decision to have to make.
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| A totally rebuilt Westkapelle |
By the mid fifties the town was rebuilt, much as it is today. We had our pre-prepared sandwiches just outside town by a lake then had chips and mayo at a seaside chippy. Very Dutch. Then cycled along the top of the sea dyke to Domburg, a spectacular run. North of Domburg we passed through an extensive woodland and spotted some deer with a newly born on spring loaded legs. Very extensive dune walks (bikes not allowed) that would be good to do sometime.
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| Walkies - the Dutch way |
At this point I felt I'd had enough and returned to the caravan, buying bread at Serooskerke en route. Had a hot shower, shave and beard trim in the excellent facilities here. Helen meanwhile was determined to get more miles in and carried on over the Veerse Meer bridge to do more coast on the next island up. Managed to do 50 miles in all, pretty good given the wind today. The electric bikes are pretty well essential when there's any sort of wind here. Which seems to be most of the time.
Sat 7th Sept
Trip Stats
750 - total round trip mileage
43 - average MPG
79 - litres diesel used
102 - £ cost of fuel
200 - Kg of CO2 produced
750 - total round trip mileage
43 - average MPG
79 - litres diesel used
102 - £ cost of fuel
200 - Kg of CO2 produced
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